Spirals By Steve

This page has links for some of the tools I use.  I recently joined the Amazon affiliate program, and get a small advertising commission when you purchase items on Amazon using these links.  This helps support what I do, and I sure appreciate it.  These are tools that I use myself and recommend to others.
I have been using the same DeWalt scroll saw for about 15 years.  It is a good machine, and I like that the table tilts left or right. It has enough capacity to cut through 2" thick wood when blade is square to table.  The largest segments of the ammonite patterns need this much capacity and power to make the cut.
One of my favorite blades for cross-cutting on table saw is this Freud Fusion 10" saw blade.  It's not a thin-kerf blade, but is better for producing a flat miter glue joint surface.  The heavier plate results in a stiffer blade with less vibration or deflection than a thin kerf blade.
I've got a few different rip blades for my table saw, this is one of them.  A good rip blade has fewer teeth than a cross-cut blade.  Freud is a great brand in my opinion.
Freud also makes a good stack dado blade set.
As long as the wood is not more than 1" thick this is an awesome blade to use on a table saw.  The kerf is about .075".  A lot cheaper than 10" blades too.
These Saburrtooth burrs are great for power carving with a Dremel!  They are fast and efficient for material removal.  On the downside, if you hit metal it will dull the burr very quickly by chipping off the fine needle-like carbide points.  They also turn the wood into fine dust instead of shavings - so wear a dust mask!
For smoothing broad open areas in the interior of a wood shell, I use a 1/4" shank 1" sphere burr like this one before sanding.  It can be powered by a flex-shaft in a drill press, or a higher speed tool such as a Foredom.
Also for interior smoothing, a flame profile is also useful.  The larger radius of the profile leaves a surface with less waviness.

This 1/8" shank burr is great for making a rounded edge on the spines of a shell.
An old favorite.  This carbide grit disc is like a miniature version of a carbide wheel for an angle grinder.  A coarse sanding disc that never wears out.
Diamond burrs are useful for sanding some woods such as eastern red cedar.  Also useful for very hard materials.
The extra small Rotary Chisel I use in my Dremel is great for carving and produces shavings instead of dust.  Of the four profiles available, I use the round.  The two smallest sizes are 1/8" shank.
The next size up Rotary Chisel has a larger diameter.  These bits are hand-made in the USA, and appear to be re-sharpenable.  The triangular cutter is tungsten carbide.
This is the flex-shaft I use for large burrs or interior sanding.  Just chuck the end in your drill press for plenty of torque, and speeds up to a few thousand rpm.
I use a Dremel 4000 for most of the carving I do on my shells.  Plenty of power for the 1/8" shank Saburrtooth burrs.
The flex-shaft attachment for the Dremel.  These are handy to use with the smaller burrs.  Larger burrs seem to work better attached directly to the motor for more rotational inertia effect.
Use this Dremel keyless chuck with the homemade sanders made from a nail, or with small drill bits.  You can remove the knurling so it's less likely to mar your work accidentally.
You'll need this to do exterior sanding on a shell with your drill press.  Use with 5" hook and loop sanding discs.  This setup can be more aggressive than a belt sander.
I use this Proxon 2" angle grinder for sanding areas too big for Dremel, and too small for 5" discs.  It's enough power for sanding, but nothing near a 4.5" angle grinder.  There is a newer model (red) that is supposed to have more power.
A less expensive alternative to the Proxon grinder that makes your Dremel a right angle tool.  Not as compact though.
This will be my next air compressor.  I watched this video demonstrating how quiet it is (only 60 decibels) - very impressive!
Think your Dremel is fast?  These dental drills are powered by your air compressor (mine uses about 2cfm@40 psi).  They use 1/16" shank bits in carbide or diamond somewhere around 300,000+ rpm.  They also have a bright LED to illuminate workpiece.  Surprising what they are capable of.
A good assortment of diamond bits for dental drill.  
Carbide burrs for dental drill.
This looks similar to the vacuum pump I use with my wedge-cutting jig.  Less expensive than HF or others.  Good reviews and more volume flow also.  Attach your fittings with standard 1/4" fittings and hose barb to attach vinyl tubing.
You need a vacuum gauge for your pump to know exactly how strong it's gripping the board or if it's leaking.
This magnetic base dial indicator lets you precisely move your table saw fence with .001" accuracy.
This pair of magnetic hold-downs is very convenient for holding jigs, feather-boards, or whatever firmly in place on iron or steel surfaces.
Protect your sinuses and lungs from harmful dust.  Much cheaper than having sinus surgery later like I did.
One of my favorite routers is the Bosch Colt.  It has plenty of power for most uses with 1/4" shank bits.
I'm still using my Porter Cable router I bought in the 1990's for my router table.  A very good router!
This oscillating spindle/belt sander works great!  I use mine to make perfectly concentric rings.
Every woodshop needs a good band saw.  I use an older 14" Delta.
Most of my cross-cutting is done on a 10" Makita compound miter saw.
I like Bosch tools, this is a really good jigsaw.

Cold workshop?  Coveralls will help a lot to stay warm, and your clothes underneath dust-free when you go back in the house - so you get yelled at less.